Southern CA Dog Hiking Havens

Looking for a fun way to spend some time with your dog? Southern California is home to lots of dog-friendly hiking trails. These destinations make really fun day-trips for both humans and canines alike. Being outdoors in a new environment will thrill most dogs with all sorts of interesting & curious sights, smells, and textures. Lazy girl bonus: you can make your large breed dog wear a puppypack and tote your water & sunblock for you!

Please remember to be kind to the native plants & wildlife:

1) Keep your dog on a minimum of a 6-foot leash at all times (besides being able to control your dog's temptation to chase after squirrely squirrels, being on-leash lessens the chance of your dog picking up ticks & poison oak, running into a rattlesnake, or destroying a cuddlesome creature's home.)

2) Brush up on your "Leave It" and "Drop It" commands, and remember to apply a premium anti-tick treatment (like frontline, etc.) before embarking on your adventure.

3) Be sure to bring pick-up bags and properly dispose of your dog's waste in the trash (many people are not aware that dog waste can transmit really serious diseases to wildlife. Dog waste contains bacteria that wild animal waste does not have. Dog waste can also carry parasites that wild animal immune systems are not able to properly combat.) Plus (just like everywhere else you go) it's always gross to step in!

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LA Links:

California Canine Hikers organizes group hiking trips (no need for beginners to worry about getting lost!) Besides being fun for the dogs, this is a great way for responsible pet parents to socialize.

Eaton Canyon Natural Area (Pasadena)

Santa Monica Mountains Trails (TONS of trails to explore) Dogs are permitted only on National park land (not State land), so planning can be tricky. Refer to maps for help, or call the visitor center at 805-370-2301 for specifics.

Monrovia Canyon Falls (Monrovia) Click on site link.

Runyon Canyon (Hollywood) In addition to an off-leash dog park area, there are trails for hiking. There is one main, paved trail, and two dirt trails. This is not a supernaturey location, but it's ideal for those looking for a busy, populated (and popular!) site. Trivia FYI: Dog-loving celebs are often seen here. Top parking lot/entrance: Mullholland Drive, about five minutes west of the 101. Bottom parking/entrance: street parking, entrance is at north end of Fuller Ave.

OC Links:

Doggie and Me Trail Hikes (Fullerton) Join others for one-day group excursions, lead by the Fullerton Recreation Department.

Fullerton Trails: Hitscher Park Trail: Three miles, starting at the corner of W Valley View Drive and Bastenchury. Fullerton Panorama Trail: Three miles, starting at the Coyote Hills Golf Course. Fullerton East Coyote Hills Trail: Three miles, starting at Bastanchaury Blvd and Brea in Trail Rest Park. Juanita Cooke Greenbelt Trail: Five and a half miles, starting at the north end of Laguna Lake Park. For any Fullerton trail info, call: 714-738-6575.

Upper Newport Bay (Newport Beach) Three miles, starting at the corner of Irvine Ave and University Ave. 949-923-2290.

People Food For Puppies...?

I'm a pretty relaxy-flexible sort of person, especially when it comes to dog training. Having fun, and being able to adapt to puppy silliness makes learning a positive experience for everyone involved. There are very few absolutes in my world, but I feel strongly that feeding dogs food that is not specifically made for dogs is generally a bad idea. Here's why:


1. First off, most people food is typically difficult for dogs to digest. This translates to rather disgusting poop. Enough said about that one...

2. Secondly, some delicious human foods can make your dog very sick. Some of these foods can even kill your dog. You may think that if you know what these foods are, you can simply avoid them and everything will be fine. However, human foods often consist of lots of different ingredients, and since many of the foods we eat are already premade, we're rarely aware of every single ingredient that goes into the recipe. These are three of the most dangerous human foods that I strongly recommend you eliminate from your dog's diet (along with the reasons why):

Chocolate: Lots of people seem to know about this one, but just in case you haven't heard... Chocolate contains something called theobromine, which is a stimulant that is toxic to dogs. It increases the heart rate, and it can also cause the heart to beat irregularly, both of which can lead to death. After eating chocolate, many dog owners assume their pet is fine due to a lack of obvious symptoms that something might be wrong. Pet parents should keep in mind that in this case we are most concerned about the heart, which is an internal organ (that you can not see!) Related externally visual symptoms such as hyperactivity, extreme thirst, vomiting, and seizures may show up quickly, hours after ingestion, or sometimes not at all. Cocoa powder and baking chocolate are the most toxic forms because they are the most concentrated (followed by semi-sweet and dark chocolate, then milk chocolate, then white chocolate.) Carob is a popular chocolate substitute for health-nut humans, and it's a wonderful alternative for dogs, too!

Onion: This one is scary because we put onions in so many foods! Onions contain a toxin called thiosulphate. Pets affected by onion toxicity can develop haemolytic anemia (red blood cells burst while circulating in the body.) Not fun. At first, pets usually show stomach symptoms (vomiting, yucky poops, loss of appetite etc.) They become supersleepy and breathless. The breathlessness occurs because the red blood cells that carry oxygen through the body are reduced in number. Poisoning may not occur until days (yes, DAYS) after the pet has eaten the onion. All forms of onion can be a problem including dehydrated onions, raw onions, and cooked onions. Onion poisoning can occur with a single large quantity ingestion or with repeated meals containing smallish amounts of onion. This is the number one reason why I'm so against table scraps! Boo to table scraps!

Macadamia Nuts: The toxic compound is currently unknown, but the effect can cause muscle tremors, weakness, or paralysis of the hindquarters. Dogs are often unable to rise. Some have swollen legs and show pain when the limbs are manipulated. This is something you don't want to see your dog go through, and some dogs have shown these symptoms after eating as few as only six macadamia nuts!

FYI: While not seen as dangerous, grapes, raisins and large doses of garlic are also foods that most modern vets urge dogs to stay away from.

3. Lastly, when done in a casual manner, sharing food with your dog can interfere with your leadership status. If you DO choose to share (dog-safe) human food with your dog, please take the time to turn the behavior into a positive ritual:

Make sure your dog sees you eating first (remember, leaders always eat first!)

Make a habit of placing the food in your dog's dish, at your dog's normal eating spot. Feeding scraps from the table encourages begging behavior (which is rude!)

If you're sharing on the go, and away from the table, remember to make your dog work for the deliciousness (for example, have her do a sit stay or down stay before eating.)

Consider adding a modern, high-end dog food to your dog's diet. Many companies such as Halo now actually use human-grade ingredients!

Limit your sharing only to healthy foods: Refrain from random scraps or leftovers. Instead, choose healthy foods specifically with your dog in mind. You might try some of the veggies and fruits listed in my low-calorie treats post. Maybe purchase a "cooking for dogs" themed cookbook (there are actually LOTS of them published these days!) The Rachael Ray Show website has several pages filled with really yummy, made-for-dogs recipes, too. And the ever-classic chicken breast & rice almost always makes an excellent meal for lucky pups (and while you're at it, feel free to bring me some!)

Yummy Low Calorie Dog Treats

For dogs watching their figure, the possible effects of training based on the reward method can be a justified concern. Here are some ideas that you might find helpful:

1. The first thing to remember is that rewards don't always need to be food-based, and that treats can be (and should be!) rotated with other stuff dogs want: like time with a favorite toy, praise, hugs & kisses, and even waterplay (especially for labs.)

2. That having been said, while many treats CAN be junk-foody and caloric, I've encountered one low-calorie brand that most dogs reallyreally seem to LOVE. They're called Charlee Bear Treats and you can get them at PETCO, and other retailers (listed on their website.) These treats come in a few different flavors, and all look superboring, dry and bland... but pups and old-timers alike gobble them down with slobbery big giant doggy smiles. The first time I witnessed it, I was astonished... how could something so bland-looking get such an enthusiastic reaction? The eyes light up! Tails wag like crazy! Over time, almost every dog I've worked with has LOOOOOOOOVED these things... big dogs, small dogs, breeds of all sorts... it's a miracle treat! The miracle-within-the-miracle is that each treat is only three calories!! I usually break those suckers up into tiny pieces (into at least three bits per treat... thus making them a minimum of a mere one calorie each!)

3. Regardless of the treats you're using, it's a good idea to break treats up into smaller mini treat portions. You'll be using the same calorie base, but will be able to reward with more frequency!

4. You can also rotate normal treats with natural tasties like blueberries, or small slices of banana, cantaloupe, watermelon, apple, and carrot (just be sure to limit the amount so you don't wind up with yucky poops!)

5. Another option is to use your dog's normal dog food kibble as a reward. When measuring out your dog's normal meal serving (as determined by your vet, or by the instructions on the dog food bag), just set aside part of the portion in a little ziplock baggie. Use that amount for the day's training. This way you aren't adding any additional calories to your dog's daily intake, just redistributing them! This is also a great idea for dogs who are on a very strict diet for other reasons (sensitive stomachs, allergies, etc.)

6. As always, ask your vet for guidance. And if you have any creative, healthy, low-cal treat recommendations, please lemmie know!

Puppy Parks & Dog Beach Tips

The area where I live (and where most of my clients live) has several dog parks & beaches within close proximity. Dog parks and beaches can be a really fun way for dogs to socialize and play-off excess energy. However, there are some rather serious drawbacks. Many clients ask me if I think these places are safe. The answer honestly depends on you and your dog (as well as the other dogs and owners who happen to be sharing the space with you!) Before making the decision to visit, take the time to consider what's best for your unique situation. These are a few things I believe pet parents should keep in mind before such an outing, in order to better ensure a positive experience.

1. How well-trained is your dog? The better trained, the more you can relax. Your puppy doesn't need to be able to do a play-dead, high-five, backwards flip triple combo, but I recommend that your dog has the "come" command down really really well. If your dog does not come when called at home, where there aren't any distractions, there is NO WAY your dog will respond to you in this environment. Most dog parks & beaches are off leash, and since you can not control the actions of the other dogs or dog owners, you will want to feel confident that you can call your dog to you, if you need to get out of the area quickly.

2. All vaccinations should be current. Again, you can't control the health of the other dogs, but you can make sure your dog is immunized. This is not the place for puppies who haven't had all their shots yet. Your dog may come in contact with germs & diseases during play, or through exposure to shared water, toys, or waste (there are even airborne illnesses.) On a related note, be sure your vet's phone number is in your cell phone just in case of an emergency situation.

3. Consider your dog's physical state. Small breed dogs can often feel intimidated by larger breeds. Small breeds can also trigger the prey drive in larger dogs, and that can sometimes lead to dog attacks. Some parks will have a small breed area, and if yours does, that's where you'll want to take your little guy so he can be down on the ground without feeling stressed. Resist the urge to carry him, as this can have an effect on the hierarchy of the play pack: being up high, your dog may feel he is more dominant in this position (or the other dogs might interpret this as being so.) The other dogs will also feel compelled to jump up in order to greet him.

If you have a large dog, or a breed that has been publicized as being aggressive (pit bull, rot, etc.), know that you may encounter some initial prejudices upon your arrival. Other pet parents will most likely be watching you and your dog very carefully, so it's important that you feel confident in your dog's ability to respond to your commands. By demonstrating to others that you have loving, consistent control, your well-trained, polite, gentle, friendly big dog can leave a good impression of you, of themselves, and even of the breed! Rude, out of control dogs will do the opposite, and (sadly!), some dog parks have actually even banned specific breeds for this reason. You want to be sure that when people are talking about your dog, they're saying GOOD things :)

4. Consider your dog's mental state. If you have a supershy dog, this is not the best place for them to socialize. It might be best to start with walking playdates with a friend, dogs on leash, at a regular park. Consider small group training classes. Gently ease them into new faces and places. If you have an aggressive dog, ABSOLUTELY do not take your dog to a dog park or beach. Not only is this dangerous for other dogs, it's also dangerous for you. As an owner, you do not want to get sued. Aggressive dogs need to work one-on-one with a trainer specializing in aggression.

5. Take a peek at the park without your dog before your visit. Try to determine when the busy days/times are. Associate yourself with the entry and exits. Know what the rules are. Visit the website for details.

6. Leave the little humans at home. High-pitched screams, cries, whines, running, chasing, pulling... it's all very stressful for dogs, especially dogs who have never encountered children. For safety reasons, make sure both your canine AND human babies are old enough and well-trained enough before this level of interaction.

7. Enter through a low-traffic area. I've noticed that most fights tend to happen right at the gate/ busy entry area... dogs rush to great each other at these locations and there is a greater chance that over excitement and pack mentality might take over, especially with dogs new to the park. Encourage your dog to play off aways, more towards smaller groups in the beginning. If you notice that your dog starts to take on a "greeter" role at the entry way, call your dog to you and head off to a different location for play.

8. If your dog park is off-leash, take off the leash as soon as you enter (side note: if having your dog off-leash makes you nervous, that's a clue that maybe your dog's training isn't at the right level just yet.) Mixed leashed and unleashed company can lead to conflict. Leashed dogs often feel threatened because they don't have the same level of freedom to protect themselves, if needed, and this can create problems. Carry the leash with you at all times in case you need to reclaim your dog in a hurry. I recommend using a normal flat collar and 6 foot lead (same as in my training classes.) You can quickly clip on the leash and lead your dog away.

9. Keep walking, especially on your initial visit. Calm movement (rather than sitting still or standing) will help minimize territory and defensive behaviors. Instead of stare-downs, you're more likely to encounter friendly sniffs.

10. Know where your dog is at all times and stay close. Pay attention to your dog's body language, as well as that of the dog's she's playing with. Keep your eyes out for obviously fearful dogs (they can freak out and become fear-aggressive), and also keep an eye out for toy possessive dogs (tennis balls are especially coveted.) Some dogs don't adjust well to sharing, and they can get snappish. Dog attacks do occur at these locations more than most people are aware of, so be sure to keep your attention focused on the well-being of your pet. If the behavior of any of the dogs (or humans!) makes you feel uneasy in ANY way, it's best just to trust your intuition and leave.

11. Be friendly and respectful of other pet parents. All dogs are different. They have different backgrounds and unique life experiences. So if an owner feels your dog might be roughhousing too much, but you believe your dog is an all-heart softy who's maybe just being enthusiastic, don't take it personally. Rather than debate, it's easiest to simply respect the pet parent's feelings and have your dog play with someone else! This person could actually be doing you a favor. They may be protecting your dog...

Local Beaches & Parks:

Dog Beach Zone (Long Beach)

Long Beach Dog Park

Huntington Beach Dog Beach

Seal Beach Dog Park

Best Friend Dog Park (Huntington Beach)

Central Bark (Irvine)

Cosa Mesa Bark Park

Fullerton Pooch Park

Languna Beach Bark Park

Delightful Designer Dog Carriers

I am not a shoe person at-all-at-all-at-all. When able, I mostly wear flip flops, or try to go barefoot. But. I do love handbags. Like, a whole, whole lot. For others like me, you should rejoice in the knowledge that there are some really, truly cute dog carriers out there right now for smallish pups. Most little-dog-loving handbagians already know about the beigey & predictable (yet gorgeously covetable!) louis vuitton signature carrier (and it's equally cute "little sis" coach signature carrier.) However...I've recently discovered some more obscure and completely lovely, creative creations you've just GOT to see:

First up is Pet Flys purple studded sparrow Puppy Love Forever tattoo bag. Actually, Pet Flys has several really unique designs including semi-punky ones with skull patterns, camo prints and the like. The darling, playful Uncle Monkey bag pictured is also from Pet Flys. Their website sells each of their designs in not one, but THREE different sizes (for 5LB, 11LB, or 16LB dogs.)

The next bag pictured doesn't even remotely look like a typical dog carrier. This ones's the Charlie Bag, by Kwigy-bo , and they have lots of other similar "normal handbagish" styles. It's approved by most airlines, it's leather, it comes in black, white, & pink, and I swear it looks just like a regular handbag!

Ugg (maker of big cozy boot fame) has a supercomfy-looking limited edition bag called the Tasman Doggie Duffle. Very winter-friendly. Available at Saks.

For the more edgier-artsy types, Fluff has their Coquette bag with a fashionista scribble design. And they have even more fun patterns (!), including a pro-girly pink cupcake print. They both have heart charms and are made of an easy-to-wipe-off leathery type material. You can find Fluff bags at Tail of a Princess. So sweet!

Holiday Doggie Dress Up

Instead of torturing your dog by making him wear an over-the-top elaborate holiday costume (see the not-so-elated santa paws photo from my last post...), check out this site and dress up Butters the adorable puppy. You can warm his paws with a pair of cozy mittens, decorate his tree, and even have him pose with a snowman. Superfun for kids especially, and a definite must-see for Husky lovers: www.siberescue.com/Kids/dressup/xmas_07/Happy_Howlidays.html This site also has really great information regarding anything Husky-related, and there's even a "fun zone" page with games (I like the strangely addictive "Same Game" dog face match-up puzzle.)

Choosing a Dog Trainer

I truly love dogs, and I wish I could take on a gazillion clients all at once! Sadly, my busy schedule makes that pretty impossible (if only I had a clone...!) If you're looking for a fantastic trainer in your area, here are some of my personal tips that just might help you find the perfect fit:

1) Talk to your friends, family, a trusted groomer or vet (& even strangers with extraordinarily polite pups) and ask them for recommendations. Keep in mind that there are many large-scale businesses/ chain stores that offer dog training classes, so it's important to find out the name of the individual trainer your referral worked with (just as in any other industry, both wonderful and really really terrible employees can sometimes be working for the same company.)

2) Become familiar with the different methods of training before you begin your search, and then look for a trainer who uses techniques you feel most comfortable with. Be aware that there are some very opinionated trainers out there. I recommend looking for a trainer who uses terms like "I feel, I've found, I think, I believe, In my opinion, In my experience..." A confident trainer should be able to clearly explain his or her own personal training philosophy and the reasons behind it without becoming defensive... then let you decide if those techniques are something you feel comfortable with. Personally, I believe that positive reinforcement training is the best way to go, and so that's what I use with all my clients. I've found that students who are already drawn to that form of training have the best results with my techniques.

3) Most professional trainers who offer private lessons will be happy to talk with you over the phone or via email before you commit to lessons. Many will have a website with details regarding their background and training methods. Getting to know a bit about your trainer's personality and beliefs ahead of time may give you a better idea about what you might expect from them in person.

For instance, in addition to having gone through traditional dog trainer training, I've also been trained in pet first aid/CPR, animal assisted therapy, and have a certificate in Humane Education (from HSU.) You may find other trainers who, say, have protective/guard dog training backgrounds, etc. As you might imagine, the training processes would likely be different.

You might also find it helpful to ask about any "side jobs," education, or interests. In my case, I also work as a Naturalist (and have training in environmental education, native wildlife, etc.) I'm used to working with the public, and with children in particular ( Part of my job as a naturalist is teaching Nature-Based Preschool.) I majored in journalism and art in college. While this might seem unrelated to working with dogs, that background helped develop my observational skills, appreciation for detail, and communicative abilities; all of which give me a great advantage in my field.

4) Look for a trainer who truly likes dogs... and also truly likes people. It's strange to say, but many "dog people" aren't always too thrilled about interacting with their own species. It's important that your trainer works well with animals, and can also be warm, engaging, polite, and communicative with humans (like you!), too.

Positivity Training Tips

One of the best perks with positivity-based training is that your sessions will be ... positive! Training your dog should be fun for you both. As with any relationship, good communication is key. The more you understand how a dog thinks and learns, the more effectively you can communicate. Here are some things to remember while working with your dog:

1. Behavior that is rewarded is most likely to reoccur. Dogs do what works. For example, if your dog is rewarded with praise and a treat for sitting, he is more likely to sit the next time you ask. If he has learned that jumping will earn your immediate attention, he will keep on jumping (because your attention is his reward.)

2. Dogs learn by association. When training, timing is key. It is important to reward immediately following the desired behavior. This also applies in reverse: reprimanding your dog for something he may have done hours ago (like destroying a shoe) is pointless. Because of the gap in time, your dog is unable to associate your reprimand with what he's done.

3. Reward behaviors you want, rather than punishing behaviors you don't want.

4. Beginners should practice in low-distraction areas.

5. Be sure to train in different locations inside the house and outside, too, so your dog understands location is not linked to the command (some dogs will learn to sit-stay "only in the living room in front of the red chair," because they've only ever practiced the sit-stay in the living room in front of the red chair!)

6. Say the command word only ONCE. If your dog does not respond to the command once, don't repeat it over and over; instead, take a moment, then move to another location and start again. Dogs (much like humans) tend to tune-out repeated phrases (I'm sure we've all heard poor Tommy's mom at the supermarket: "Tommy, stop it. Tommy, STOP it. Tommy, STOP it now! Tommy, STOP it!.... Now, Tommy, STOP IT!"... Tommy stopped listening a looooooong time ago. By repeating a command word, we cause a similar effect with dogs.)

7. Jackpot! The Jackpot is a really superduper special reward: the MOST favorite of his treats, or the BESTBEST toy he loves. Your dog can earn this amazing prize by doing something wonderful. If your dog is struggling with a command, and suddenly has a breakthrough, this is when he gets the jackpot. Spoil him rotten with praise, petting, and three or four of those treats one after the other. Jackpotting makes a huge impression, and he's therefore more likely to perform the behavior better than usual the next time.

8. Find an alternate behavior. When you want your dog to stop doing something, give him something else to do. If he jumps up on you, have him sit. If he's chewing on your furniture, give him a chew toy. Change a negative into a positive by giving your dog a task to succeed at.

9. Take baby steps. Build on your dog's success in small increments. Don't expect too much too soon. For example, when learning the sit stay, have your dog hold the stay for two seconds. If that's successful, the next day work on three seconds. If that works, move on to four seconds.

10. Phase treats out gradually. Don't Worry... you will not need to carry treats around with you for the rest of your life! Use treats every time, at first. As your commands become solid, start replacing treats at random intervals with rewards like petting and praise. Over time, with much repetitive practice, your dog will begin to respond automatically (just as when we stop at red lights, we don't really have to think about it... we've done it so many times it's simply automatic.)

11. Keep it short. Your practice sessions can be about 5 minutes long, a few times a day (you might want to do them during commercial breaks while watching TV!) Focus on one behavior per session. Always stay positive. If you're feeling frustrated, go back to a command your dog is great at, end your session on a high note, and practice again when you're in a better frame of mind.

12. Be consistent. Having clear rules and a schedule your dog can count on inspires his confidence in your leadership. For example, if one person in the household wants the dog on the sofa, and another person says "no dogs on the sofa!", you MUST decide on one consistent universal rule. Rules and boundries help both children and animals feel secure.

13. Exercise is key. Many behavior problems can be eased by making sure your dog has ample exercise. Burn off that frantic dog energy (or apathy!) with sensory-stimulating physical activities like lots of looong walks ("lots" typically being at least two times daily, and "long" typically being at least 20 minutes- 1 hour per walk.) You can also add in running time, catch, frisbee, freeze tag or agility coursework. You will be amazed by how much a simple increase in excercise works wonders.

What is Positivity-Based Training?

Positive reinforcement training is a fun, loving, humane method favored by many modern animal behaviorists. Dogs discover for themselves that positive behavior equals good stuff. The role of the human is to help guide furry students along by marking desired behaviors (either vocally, with hand gestures, and/or with a clicker.) Combined with consistent human leadership, most dogs feel a natural motivation to succeed and look forward to training sessions, eager to figure out what they can do to win their "fabulous prizes" (supercool things like treats, praise, affection, & feelings of accomplishment.)

Positive reinforcement techniques are the ONLY techniques that I use in training, and I have found them wonderfully effective.

In the past, traditional training techniques relied heavily on "forcing dogs to obey..." primarily using physical manipulation and/or fear (which would include using choke collars, shock collars, "alpha rolls," or dominance-heavy curriculum.) Some of these methods just don't work, and even though some of them can work, in my opinion... they do not kindle the same strong, loving, and truly respectful bond between the species that pure, positive reinforcement methods create.

What sets modern positivity-based training apart from more old-fashioned methods is that the animals involved are actually making the decision to perform a specific behavior of their own free will. Rather than simply subduing dogs, you are guiding them. You are encouraging them to think, and empowering them with the tools that they need to the make wise choices you will approve of.

Positivity-based training requires consistency, and patience on the part of the humans involved. Though it does take commitment, the benefits of positivity-based training are well-worth the effort. These techniques have been proven to work, not just with dogs, but with exotic animals such as lions, bears, dolphins (and even goldfish!)